Tomato Tart

It’s tomato season in Minneapolis- at long last. Even after living above the Mason-Dixon line for the last 12 years, I still can’t get used to the fact that you can’t get a good tomato up here until August. I start craving tomato sandwiches in June, and every June, I get miffed when I remember that I have to wait two whole months before I can have one. Once they’re ready, though, it is all tomatoes all the time for me. Tomato toast with a fried egg for breakfast! Open-faced tomato sandwiches for lunch! Cherry tomatoes by the handful for no reason whatsoever! And also, when I have a little more time to devote to tomato-based cooking: tomato tart.

This recipe was passed on to me by my good friend Sam, whose mom, Beth, adapted it from Taste of Home. It’s a modest recipe, using just a handful of basic ingredients, and as you can see, the finished product doesn’t exactly look like much– but the payoff is spectacular. I’m of the opinion that there are two perfect tomato combinations: tomato + mayo, and tomato + basil + mozzarella. This tart just goes ahead and combines them, with some garlic and parm thrown in for good measure. Who could resist such a thing? It’s a work of genius. That said, there are definitely some tips and tricks to keep in mind when making this. Let’s discuss.

First: the pie crust. Here’s where I tell you that I am really bad at making pastry. I can’t make a decent fluted or crimped crust to save my life, and I can never get the blind bake to go right. The first time I made this tart this summer, half of my pastry somehow melted away into a glop in the bottom of the pan, while the other half melted onto the floor of the oven, making my fire alarm scream at me for the whole afternoon. The second time around was slightly more successful, but as you can see, it was still kind of ugly. I say all that to say: I don’t really care what pie crust recipe you use. Sam uses a recipe from Stella Parks, which I will admit is crazy delicious, but I have found it sort of difficult to work with– user error, no doubt. I’ve also had pretty good results in the past with Joy the Baker’s no-roll crust and Ovenly’s pate brisee. But at the end of the day, this tart is all about the tomatoes, so the last thing you need to do is get worked up about the crust. I won’t even judge you if you go store-bought– just don’t tell Sam I said that.

Second: the tomatoes. The paradox of this tart is that the thing that makes peak-summer tomatoes so delicious– their lovely juices– is the Achilles’ heel of this recipe. Whether you use cherry tomatoes, beefsteaks, or something in between, you have to seed them thoroughly if you want the filling to have any chance of holding together. The first time I made this tart this summer– you know, the time when my crust turned into a puddle– I also forgot to seed the tomatoes, so what I ended up with was more of a summer tomato soup. We still ate every bite… but don’t be like me. Seed your tomatoes, and drain them well on paper towels.

Third: the mozzarella. The Taste of Home recipe calls for shredded part-skim mozzarella, and while I have backed off a little on the “No Pre-Shredded Cheese” policy I established during my time as a cheesemonger, I draw the line at mozzarella, and the words “part skim” don’t belong anywhere near cheese, as far as I’m concerned. Just buy a ball of fresh mozzarella and tear it up by hand.

Fourth and finally: the filling! It won’t surprise you to learn that I have opinions when it comes to the mayonnaise. However, I’m not going to preach about it! I use Duke’s when I can get it, and I think Hellman’s is great, too. Whatever you have in your fridge will work just fine (unless it’s Trader Joe’s organic mayo, which is revolting. Now that I will preach about). The filling couldn’t be easier: it’s just a mixture of minced garlic, grated parm, mayo, fresh basil, and pepper (I use white pepper when I have it on hand).

Once you have a blind-baked crust (and the less I say about that, the better), assembly is a snap. Sprinkle a bit of the torn mozzarella on the crust while it’s still hot, layer the tomato slices on top of that, dollop on the filling, and then pop it in the oven to do its thing.

I could spend more time telling you about the wonders of tomato tart, but that’s time you could be spending making tomato tart. I’m gonna let you get to it.

Tomato Tart
adapted from Taste of Home

Pastry for a single-crust pie (as I said above, I wash my hands of all pastry-related decisions- you pick a recipe you like)
1 8 oz. ball fresh mozzarella cheese, torn by hand into small pieces
about 1 pound fresh, best-quality tomatoes
1 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves, chopped finely
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/8 teaspoon white pepper

Cut each tomato into thick slices; remove seeds and drain on paper towels.

Blind bake your pie crust according to the recipe’s directions. Remove from the oven, and while crust is still hot, sprinkle 1/2 cup mozzarella over the hot crust, and arrange tomato slices over cheese. Adjust oven heat to 375°.

Combine basil, garlic, mayonnaise, Parmesan, pepper and the remaining mozzarella; spoon over the tomatoes. Bake, uncovered, until the cheese is browned and bubbly, 20-25 minutes.